Screen printing, actually a really easy process, with doing every step carefully and focus, the result will be very satisfying, also remember this...
use your feelling,
not your muscle...
08 April 2015
Printing basic knowledge (1/3)
Printing Process
Applying coloured patterns and designs to decorate a finished fabric is called 'Printing'. In a proper printed fabric, the colour is affixed to the fiber, so that it may not be affected by washing and friction.
Whether a fabric is dyed or printed can be known by examining the outline of the design. On a printed fabric, the outline of a design is sharply defined on the outer side.
The design generally do not penetrate to the back of the cloth. However, the design may show up on the reverse side of transparently thin fabrics. These fabrics may be confused with the woven designs where yarn dyed warp and filling are used. If the design is printed on such a fabric, the yarns will show some areas on which colour is not equally distributed.
Applying coloured patterns and designs to decorate a finished fabric is called 'Printing'. In a proper printed fabric, the colour is affixed to the fiber, so that it may not be affected by washing and friction.
Whether a fabric is dyed or printed can be known by examining the outline of the design. On a printed fabric, the outline of a design is sharply defined on the outer side.
The design generally do not penetrate to the back of the cloth. However, the design may show up on the reverse side of transparently thin fabrics. These fabrics may be confused with the woven designs where yarn dyed warp and filling are used. If the design is printed on such a fabric, the yarns will show some areas on which colour is not equally distributed.
Printing basic knowledge (2/3)
Methods of Printing
Three different approaches or techniques are prevalent for printing colour on a fabric: Direct, Discharge and Resist
Three different approaches or techniques are prevalent for printing colour on a fabric: Direct, Discharge and Resist
Printing basic knowledge (3/3)
There
are various methods of printing in which one of the above three
techniques is used - Block Printing, Roller Printing, Duplex Printing,
Stencil
Printing, Screen Printing, Transfer Printing, Blotch Printing, Jet Spray Printing, Electrostatic Printing, Photo Printing, Differential Printing, Warp
Printing, Batik Dyeing, Tie Dyeing, Airbrush (Spray) Painting and Digital printing
Printing, Screen Printing, Transfer Printing, Blotch Printing, Jet Spray Printing, Electrostatic Printing, Photo Printing, Differential Printing, Warp
Printing, Batik Dyeing, Tie Dyeing, Airbrush (Spray) Painting and Digital printing
Costing technique in clothing industry (1/3)
taken from www.indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=2067
Garments costing
There are two types of garments, namely woven and knitted garments.
Shirt, trouser, sarees, bed spreads, blankets, towels and made ups are woven.
T‐shirts, sweaters, undergarments, pyjamas and socks are knits.
Costing is the deciding factor for fixing of prices and the important thing to follow in all stages like purchase, production, marketing, sales, etc.
Also update knowledge about everything related to garments, is essential to make perfect costing.
Costing includes all the activities like purchase of fabrics and accessories, processing and finishing of fabrics, sewing and packing of garments, transport and conveyance, shipping, over heads, banking charges and commissions, etc.
Garments costing
There are two types of garments, namely woven and knitted garments.
Shirt, trouser, sarees, bed spreads, blankets, towels and made ups are woven.
T‐shirts, sweaters, undergarments, pyjamas and socks are knits.
Costing is the deciding factor for fixing of prices and the important thing to follow in all stages like purchase, production, marketing, sales, etc.
Also update knowledge about everything related to garments, is essential to make perfect costing.
Costing includes all the activities like purchase of fabrics and accessories, processing and finishing of fabrics, sewing and packing of garments, transport and conveyance, shipping, over heads, banking charges and commissions, etc.
Costing technique in clothing industry (2/3)
Fabric consumption
The garments manufactured in many sizes to fit for everybody.
Generally they are in sizes Small (S), Medium (M),Large (L), Extra large (XL) and Double Extra Large (XXL).
The quantity ratio or assortment can be any one of the following approximate ratio.
S: M: L: XL: XXL ‐ 1:2:2:2:1
S: M: L: XL: XXL ‐ 1:2:1:2:1
S: M: L: XL: XXL ‐ 1:2:3:2:2
As the price is the same for all these sizes of garments, the author have taken the centre size large(L) for average calculation. Generally, the quantity of L size will be higher or equal to the quantity of each of other sizes.
The garments manufactured in many sizes to fit for everybody.
Generally they are in sizes Small (S), Medium (M),Large (L), Extra large (XL) and Double Extra Large (XXL).
The quantity ratio or assortment can be any one of the following approximate ratio.
S: M: L: XL: XXL ‐ 1:2:2:2:1
S: M: L: XL: XXL ‐ 1:2:1:2:1
S: M: L: XL: XXL ‐ 1:2:3:2:2
As the price is the same for all these sizes of garments, the author have taken the centre size large(L) for average calculation. Generally, the quantity of L size will be higher or equal to the quantity of each of other sizes.
Costing technique in clothing industry (3/3)
Gross weight & net weight
The above weight is the gross weight of fabric. It means the weight of the fabric bits cut in tubular form without
taking shapes is called gross weight. This is the consumed fabric for the particular garment. Hence costing is to be
Fabric cost per kg (in Rs) (all charges approximately)
QUALITY CONTROL GARMEN (part 1/3)
QUALITY CONTROL GARMEN
( Thanks to : Pak Noor Fitrihana; Sumber bacaan Aas Asmawati, Pelatihan QA Garmen di PTBB UNY)
QUALITY CONTROL
Definisi Quality Control (pengendalian mutu) adalah semua usaha untuk menjamin (assurance) agar hasil dari pelaksanaan sesuai dengan rencana yang telah ditetapkan dan memuaskan konsumen (pelanggan).
Tujuan quality control adalah agar tidak terjadi barang yang tidak sesuai dengan standar mutu yang diinginkan (second quality) terus-menerus dan bisa mengendalikan, menyeleksi, menilai kualitas, sehingga konsumen merasa puas dan perusahaan tidak rugi.
( Thanks to : Pak Noor Fitrihana; Sumber bacaan Aas Asmawati, Pelatihan QA Garmen di PTBB UNY)
QUALITY CONTROL
Definisi Quality Control (pengendalian mutu) adalah semua usaha untuk menjamin (assurance) agar hasil dari pelaksanaan sesuai dengan rencana yang telah ditetapkan dan memuaskan konsumen (pelanggan).
Tujuan quality control adalah agar tidak terjadi barang yang tidak sesuai dengan standar mutu yang diinginkan (second quality) terus-menerus dan bisa mengendalikan, menyeleksi, menilai kualitas, sehingga konsumen merasa puas dan perusahaan tidak rugi.
QUALITY CONTROL GARMEN (part 2/3)
SISTEM PEMERIKSAAN DALAM PROSES PRODUKSI
Pemeriksaan Sample (Sample Inspection)
Sample adalah contoh bahan atau material, contoh model atau style, atau contoh garmen. Sample ini dapat berupa sample dari pihak pembeli atau pun yang dibuat oleh pihak pabrik.
Sample yang dimaksud di sini adalah sample yang dibuat oleh pihak pabrik berdasarkan contoh dari pihak pembeli.
Tujuan pemeriksaan adalah agar seluruh sample yang dibuat oleh pihak pabrik (bagian sample) bebas dari cacat, kerusakan, penyimpangan/ ketidaksesuain baik model, mutu jahitan/finishing, ukuran, warna, dan lain sebagainya.
Pemeriksaan Sample (Sample Inspection)
Sample adalah contoh bahan atau material, contoh model atau style, atau contoh garmen. Sample ini dapat berupa sample dari pihak pembeli atau pun yang dibuat oleh pihak pabrik.
Sample yang dimaksud di sini adalah sample yang dibuat oleh pihak pabrik berdasarkan contoh dari pihak pembeli.
Tujuan pemeriksaan adalah agar seluruh sample yang dibuat oleh pihak pabrik (bagian sample) bebas dari cacat, kerusakan, penyimpangan/ ketidaksesuain baik model, mutu jahitan/finishing, ukuran, warna, dan lain sebagainya.
QUALITY CONTROL GARMEN (part 3/3)
KLASIFIKASI DEFECT
Defect akan diklasifikasikan menjadi dua yaitu, defect major dan defect minor.
Major defect adalah sebuah kondisi garmen yang diindikasikan akan menjadi second quality atau tidak memenuhi standar karena beberapa alasan berikut :
Defect akan diklasifikasikan menjadi dua yaitu, defect major dan defect minor.
Major defect adalah sebuah kondisi garmen yang diindikasikan akan menjadi second quality atau tidak memenuhi standar karena beberapa alasan berikut :
- Defect tersebut akan mempengaruhi integrity/keutuhan dari product
- Defect tersebut akan mempengruhi terhadap daya jual dari product
- Defect tersebut akan mempengaruhu kepercayaan dan kepuasan konsumen terhadap product
- Defect tersebut menjadikan ketidak sesuaian pada style
Seam Engineering (part 1/2)
Introduction
One of the forgotten elements in sewing manufacturing is seam engineering. For example, a typical pair of branded five pocket jeans retailing for $30 to $75 is sewn with approximately 250 yards (200 meters) of thread. The cost of a quality thread for these jeans is approximately $0.25 U.S. per garment.
One of the forgotten elements in sewing manufacturing is seam engineering. For example, a typical pair of branded five pocket jeans retailing for $30 to $75 is sewn with approximately 250 yards (200 meters) of thread. The cost of a quality thread for these jeans is approximately $0.25 U.S. per garment.
Seam Engineering (part 2/2)
Fabric Type and WeightFabric type and weight can affect seam performance depending on the following:
• Fiber content (100% cotton, cotton/polyester blend, nylon).
• Fabric construction:
o Woven or knit.
o Type of weave used (plain, twill, jersey, tricot).
o Fill count.
o Yarn type and size.
• Pattern placement and seam direction.
• Propensity of the yarns in the seam to shift or pull out of the seam.
When engineering seams, we recommend doing tensile tests on the fabric to determine its strength. You cannot specify seam strength requirements that are stronger than the fabric itself.
• Fiber content (100% cotton, cotton/polyester blend, nylon).
• Fabric construction:
o Woven or knit.
o Type of weave used (plain, twill, jersey, tricot).
o Fill count.
o Yarn type and size.
• Pattern placement and seam direction.
• Propensity of the yarns in the seam to shift or pull out of the seam.
When engineering seams, we recommend doing tensile tests on the fabric to determine its strength. You cannot specify seam strength requirements that are stronger than the fabric itself.
Minimizing Needle Heat
Introduction
Today, most high-speed industrial sewing machines sew at very high speeds from 4,000 to 10,000 stitches per minute. Also, the most common sewing threads used for the manufacturing of apparel or non-apparel items are either polyester or nylon that have been produced using a melt-spinning process. Many of the fabrics being sewn are made from synthetic fibers that can be impacted by excessive heat.Some needle holes that appear to be needle cuts are actually caused by excessively hot needles. In this bulletin, we will discuss what causes needle heat and what can be done to minimize needle heat.
Today, most high-speed industrial sewing machines sew at very high speeds from 4,000 to 10,000 stitches per minute. Also, the most common sewing threads used for the manufacturing of apparel or non-apparel items are either polyester or nylon that have been produced using a melt-spinning process. Many of the fabrics being sewn are made from synthetic fibers that can be impacted by excessive heat.Some needle holes that appear to be needle cuts are actually caused by excessively hot needles. In this bulletin, we will discuss what causes needle heat and what can be done to minimize needle heat.
Accurate Fabric Cost (part 1/2)
Developing Fact-based Yield Estimates and Costing Partnershipsby Robert Broadhead
In this article I address the process of estimating fabric yields, the complications involved in offshore contracting, and how to be as accurate as possible in predicting/negotiating fabric costs.
Accurate Fabric Cost (part 2/2)
Fabric
yield estimates are an attempt to account for these components of
material utilization. More detailed and accurate itemization of
production processes in the estimate gives more accuracy. Less detail
and more averaging leads to less reliable estimates (a common approach,
for example, is making a sample size estimate marker and adding an
average percentage to the yield to account for all the other
components). Estimates are often done at three stages in the style
development process.
GARMENT GATHERING Mailing list NETIKET
GARMENT GATHERING Mailing list NETIKET
(update on February 26th 2007)
Http://asia.groups.yahoo.com/group/Garment_Gathering
==============================================================================
1. FOR EVERYONE AND FROM EVERYONE
Mailing list ini ditujukan untuk memfasilitasikan kebersamaan kita.. yang selama ini berkecimpung di dunia garment.. jadi tak ada limitasi daripada jabatan, company member berasal, dll .. setelah join dgn mailing list ini .. kita semua bersahabat.
==============================================================================
2. NO CAPS LOCK ... JUST EMOTICON
Hindari menulis email dengan Caps Lock (HURUF BESAR).
Email yang pesannya ditulis dengan huruf besar dapat diartikan dgn BERTERIAK atau malah MEMBENTAK .. so untuk mengindikasikan emosi kita pada orang lain, gunakan Emoticon .. :-)
==============================================================================
3. SOPAN, BERTANGGUNG JAWAB, NO SARA & ADU DOMBA
Silahkan berbagi informasi yang berguna untuk sesama rekan, selama sopan dan bertanggung jawab .
Harap disadari bahwa setiap e-mail yang anda kirimkan , akan dibaca oleh semua member. pertahankan motto "KEBERSAMAAN"
==============================================================================
4. NET RULES
- Hanya menggunakan email dengan format plain text tanpa visual(karena tidak semua reader bisa menerima htmlnya)bila mengirim email ke jalur umum.
- Spamming dlm bentuk apapun dlm arti semi-spamming atau spamming-dengan-niat-baik termasuk advertising mlm(multi level marketing)dilarang keras dlm komunitas ini.
- Setiap masalah yang di kemukakan / dibahas di mailing list diwajibkan untuk mencantumkan subject yang sesuai dengan topik yang dibahas, dengan rules sebagai berikut
*(EDU) education.... untuk ilmu2 MD, QA, garment, tekstil, dll
*(JOB) lowongan kerja
*(Q&A) menanyakan supplier, factory, contact person, dll
*(ADV) promosi product/usaha (DILUAR MLM)
*(OOT) gak ada hubungannya dgn garment... memposting joke, cerita2, dll
dan selanjutnya untuk anggota milis lain yang akan memberikan komentar atau jawaban dengan topik yang sama mohon tinggal direply saja jadi tidak usah membuat subjek baru lagi dan sebelum me-reply suatu email, harap mengedit dulu draft email tersebut dengan menghapus baris2 / kalimat2 yang tidak perlu/tidak relevan, termasuk signature dan footer dari millis
untuk jawaban thank's, terimakasih, private email dll, harap dikirim via JA-PRI (ke yg bersangkutan saja), tidak usah diposting ke millis
harap cek dan re-check dulu email anda sebelum memposting ke millis, jangan nanti ada reply lagi : "oopssss... sorry kebablasan td gak ngeh alamatnya salah ... "
- Para members diperkenankan untuk melakukan promosi usaha/produk di forum ini yg mana memang komoditas tsb memang milik para anggota sendiri dgn arti bukan barang org lain diluar para members.
- Moderator Team berhak menetapkan status BANNED kepada member yang melanggar ketentuan diatas, jika member tidak mengindahkan pemberitahuan yang telah dikirimkan oleh Moderator team secara JA-PRI.
==============================================================================
5. FUN FRIENDSHIP FOREVER
Terima kasih atas kerjasamanya dan Sukses selalu!
(update on February 26th 2007)
Http://asia.groups.yahoo.com/group/Garment_Gathering
==============================================================================
1. FOR EVERYONE AND FROM EVERYONE
Mailing list ini ditujukan untuk memfasilitasikan kebersamaan kita.. yang selama ini berkecimpung di dunia garment.. jadi tak ada limitasi daripada jabatan, company member berasal, dll .. setelah join dgn mailing list ini .. kita semua bersahabat.
==============================================================================
2. NO CAPS LOCK ... JUST EMOTICON
Hindari menulis email dengan Caps Lock (HURUF BESAR).
Email yang pesannya ditulis dengan huruf besar dapat diartikan dgn BERTERIAK atau malah MEMBENTAK .. so untuk mengindikasikan emosi kita pada orang lain, gunakan Emoticon .. :-)
==============================================================================
3. SOPAN, BERTANGGUNG JAWAB, NO SARA & ADU DOMBA
Silahkan berbagi informasi yang berguna untuk sesama rekan, selama sopan dan bertanggung jawab .
Harap disadari bahwa setiap e-mail yang anda kirimkan , akan dibaca oleh semua member. pertahankan motto "KEBERSAMAAN"
==============================================================================
4. NET RULES
- Hanya menggunakan email dengan format plain text tanpa visual(karena tidak semua reader bisa menerima htmlnya)bila mengirim email ke jalur umum.
- Spamming dlm bentuk apapun dlm arti semi-spamming atau spamming-dengan-niat-baik termasuk advertising mlm(multi level marketing)dilarang keras dlm komunitas ini.
- Setiap masalah yang di kemukakan / dibahas di mailing list diwajibkan untuk mencantumkan subject yang sesuai dengan topik yang dibahas, dengan rules sebagai berikut
*(EDU) education.... untuk ilmu2 MD, QA, garment, tekstil, dll
*(JOB) lowongan kerja
*(Q&A) menanyakan supplier, factory, contact person, dll
*(ADV) promosi product/usaha (DILUAR MLM)
*(OOT) gak ada hubungannya dgn garment... memposting joke, cerita2, dll
dan selanjutnya untuk anggota milis lain yang akan memberikan komentar atau jawaban dengan topik yang sama mohon tinggal direply saja jadi tidak usah membuat subjek baru lagi dan sebelum me-reply suatu email, harap mengedit dulu draft email tersebut dengan menghapus baris2 / kalimat2 yang tidak perlu/tidak relevan, termasuk signature dan footer dari millis
untuk jawaban thank's, terimakasih, private email dll, harap dikirim via JA-PRI (ke yg bersangkutan saja), tidak usah diposting ke millis
harap cek dan re-check dulu email anda sebelum memposting ke millis, jangan nanti ada reply lagi : "oopssss... sorry kebablasan td gak ngeh alamatnya salah ... "
- Para members diperkenankan untuk melakukan promosi usaha/produk di forum ini yg mana memang komoditas tsb memang milik para anggota sendiri dgn arti bukan barang org lain diluar para members.
- Moderator Team berhak menetapkan status BANNED kepada member yang melanggar ketentuan diatas, jika member tidak mengindahkan pemberitahuan yang telah dikirimkan oleh Moderator team secara JA-PRI.
==============================================================================
5. FUN FRIENDSHIP FOREVER
Terima kasih atas kerjasamanya dan Sukses selalu!
Estimating Thread Consumption
Introduction
It is important to know the amount of thread consumed in a sewn product so you can:
1) Estimate the number of cones needed; and
2) Calculate the cost of the thread needed to manufacture the finished product. Thread consumption can be determined in several ways.
To calculate the amount of thread in a seam, you can:
- Measure the actual amount of thread consumed in a specific length of seam.
- Calculate the thread consumption by using mathematical stitch formulas based on the thickness of the seam and the number of stitches per inch.
- Calculate the thread consumption using thread consumption estimates.
Measuring Actual Thread Consumed
It is important to know the amount of thread consumed in a sewn product so you can:
1) Estimate the number of cones needed; and
2) Calculate the cost of the thread needed to manufacture the finished product. Thread consumption can be determined in several ways.
To calculate the amount of thread in a seam, you can:
- Measure the actual amount of thread consumed in a specific length of seam.
- Calculate the thread consumption by using mathematical stitch formulas based on the thickness of the seam and the number of stitches per inch.
- Calculate the thread consumption using thread consumption estimates.
Measuring Actual Thread Consumed
Thread Price vs Thread Cost
Introduction
Thread price and thread cost are terms that are sometimes used synonymously but may actually have very different meanings. Thread price usually refers to the price you pay to get the thread to your plant and may or may not include shipping and transportation charges. The cost refers to all the costs related to thread performance including the purchase price. Thread, whenever it is given any consideration at all, is often treated as the primary item where a manufacturer or contractor can cut costs. Many think, "All threads are equal in performance and the same - so what colors do you have and what is your price?" However, consider that, "Thread generally makes up only a small percent of the total cost of a sewn product, but shares fully 50% of the responsibility of the seam."
Thread price and thread cost are terms that are sometimes used synonymously but may actually have very different meanings. Thread price usually refers to the price you pay to get the thread to your plant and may or may not include shipping and transportation charges. The cost refers to all the costs related to thread performance including the purchase price. Thread, whenever it is given any consideration at all, is often treated as the primary item where a manufacturer or contractor can cut costs. Many think, "All threads are equal in performance and the same - so what colors do you have and what is your price?" However, consider that, "Thread generally makes up only a small percent of the total cost of a sewn product, but shares fully 50% of the responsibility of the seam."
Choosing the Right Thread
Thread is an integral part of many items that we use daily. Certainly the various components of our apparel are joined with thread but what about the string that is attached to our tea bags?
What would happen to upholstery, seat belts, and head liner of an automobile if the thread were removed? What about the seams in our tents, back packs, sleeping bags, and other camping equipment? How are the components of baseballs and footballs joined?
What would happen to upholstery, seat belts, and head liner of an automobile if the thread were removed? What about the seams in our tents, back packs, sleeping bags, and other camping equipment? How are the components of baseballs and footballs joined?
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